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What a Pre-Purchase Inspection Should Include and the Common Issues Found
Buying a used car in Perth is one of the most common ways people end up out of pocket. Not because used cars are a bad idea, but because too many buyers skip the one step that tells you what you’re actually buying. A pre-purchase inspection is that step, and it’s a big part of what I do at WA Mobile Mechanics.
This article covers what I check during a pre-purchase inspection, why each area matters, and the problems I come across most often on Perth used cars.
Find out more about my mobile pre-purchase inspection service in Perth.
What a Pre-Purchase Inspection Should Include
A pre-purchase inspection isn’t a quick look over the car. It’s a systematic check of every major system on the vehicle before any money changes hands. Done properly, it takes between 60 and 90 minutes depending on the vehicle, and it covers far more than most buyers would think to check on their own.
Here’s what a thorough inspection should include:
- Engine and mechanical condition
- Transmission and drivetrain
- Brakes, tyres, suspension, and steering
- Electrical systems and warning lights
- Rust, body condition, and signs of previous damage
- Fluid leaks and under-bonnet checks
- Interior condition and dashboard electronics
- Photos of the vehicle inside and out
I also take the vehicle for a test drive as part of every inspection. A lot of issues only show themselves under real driving conditions, and you won’t pick them up with the car sitting still in a driveway.
Engine and Mechanical Checks
The engine is where the expensive problems tend to hide. When I’m inspecting the engine, I’m looking for signs of wear, leaks, overheating, and anything that suggests the vehicle hasn’t been looked after properly over the years.
Some of the most common things I find:
- Oil leaks around the engine block, valve cover, or oil pan, which often point to worn gaskets or seals
- Timing belt or chain wear, which matters because a failing timing component can cause catastrophic engine damage if it’s not replaced on schedule
- Coolant leaks or signs of overheating, often caused by a faulty thermostat, cracked hoses, or a head gasket that’s on its way out
- Engine misfires traced back to ignition problems, worn spark plugs, or fuel injector issues
Engine repairs are consistently the most expensive jobs I see come through. Finding these things before you buy gives you the chance to walk away or negotiate a fairer price. If you want an experienced eye on the engine before you commit, book a mobile pre-purchase inspection with me here.
Transmission and Drivetrain Checks
Transmission problems aren’t always obvious on a test drive, especially in the early stages of wear. Part of what I bring to an inspection is knowing what to listen and feel for that most buyers simply wouldn’t pick up on.
What I check includes:
- Gear slipping in automatics, which is a sign of internal wear and often indicates a gearbox that’s getting close to the end of its life
- Delayed or rough shifting, which can point to low or dirty fluid, or mechanical issues inside the gearbox
- Clutch condition in manual vehicles, where excessive slip or a high bite point tells me the clutch is due for replacement
- Driveshaft and CV joint condition, as worn CV joints are a common find and will eventually cause vibration or loss of drive if nothing’s done about them
Transmission work is expensive across the board, so this is one of the areas I pay close attention to.
Brakes, Tyres, Suspension, and Steering
These systems are directly tied to how safely the vehicle handles on the road. They’re also areas where wear can be gradual enough that the seller may genuinely not be aware of the condition.
Brakes:
- I check brake pad thickness and rotor condition. Worn pads and warped rotors increase stopping distances and are a safety concern
- Brake fluid condition is also checked, as contaminated or low fluid affects pedal feel and overall braking performance
Tyres:
- I measure tread depth on every tyre. Anything below the legal minimum in Western Australia is an immediate roadworthiness issue
- I also look at wear patterns, which can tell you a lot about wheel alignment and suspension condition
- Sidewall cracking or bulging gets flagged regardless of tread depth
Suspension and steering:
- I check shocks and struts for wear, which affects both ride quality and vehicle stability under braking
- Ball joints and tie rod ends are inspected for play, as worn components here directly compromise steering control
- Any steering vibration or pulling noted during the test drive gets investigated
If the car you’re looking at is feeling a bit off on the road or the seller can’t tell you much about its service history, get me out to inspect it before you sign anything.
Electrical Systems and Warning Lights
Electrical faults are one of the more common things I find on used cars. They range from minor inconveniences to faults that can leave you stranded, so I take this part of the inspection seriously.
What I cover:
- Battery condition, because a weak battery might start the car fine on a warm day but fail you in winter or after short trips
- Alternator output, as a faulty alternator will drain even a healthy battery over time
- All lighting, including headlights, brake lights, indicators, and reversing lights, as non-functioning lights are a roadworthiness issue in WA
- Warning lights and fault codes, because a check engine light that’s been cleared before sale will often come back on within days. I scan for codes as part of the inspection
Rust, Body Condition, and Signs of Previous Damage
Perth’s coastal environment is hard on vehicles, particularly older ones or those that have spent years near the water. Body condition also tells a story about how a car has been treated and whether there’s been accident damage that wasn’t disclosed to you.
What I look for:
- Underbody rust, which is a serious concern on the chassis or floor pan and can affect both safety and the cost of any future repairs
- Wheel arch and door rust, where surface rust can spread quickly if it’s not been treated
- Exhaust corrosion, which causes leaks, increased noise, and failed emissions checks
- Panel misalignment or mismatched paint, which often points to repaired accident damage that wasn’t disclosed
- Filler or bog, which I check for using a magnet test and a close look at panel surfaces
I always recommend running a PPSR check alongside the inspection to check for written-off status, outstanding finance, and stolen vehicle records. Not sure about the car’s history? Book an inspection and I’ll give you the full picture.
Fluid Leaks and Under-Bonnet Checks
Fluid leaks are one of the clearest signs that something needs attention. During the under-bonnet check, I’m looking at both the current condition of each fluid and any evidence of ongoing issues.
What I inspect:
- Engine oil, checking the level, colour, and any signs of contamination. Milky oil is a tell-tale sign of a head gasket problem
- Coolant, where discolouration or low levels can point to leaks or a cooling system that needs work
- Brake fluid, as dark or low fluid suggests the system hasn’t been serviced properly
- Power steering fluid, where applicable, since leaks or low levels can indicate hose or rack wear
- Transmission fluid, where the colour and smell can indicate whether the gearbox has been serviced and what condition it’s in
Fluid leaks rarely stay small. What looks like a minor seep can develop into a much bigger problem over time.
Interior Condition and Dashboard Electronics
Interior condition matters less from a safety standpoint, but it still tells you something about how the vehicle has been cared for. It’s also worth knowing about before you agree on a price.
What I check:
- Upholstery condition, as worn or damaged seats and trim are worth factoring into your overall assessment even if they’re not a mechanical issue
- Climate control, including heating and air conditioning. A/C regas or compressor repairs aren’t cheap, so I test both properly
- Infotainment and tech features, including screens, Bluetooth, reverse cameras, and any factory tech. Repairs or replacements on newer vehicles can be surprisingly expensive
- Gauges and the instrument cluster, where any malfunctions, odometer inconsistencies, or unexplained warning indicators get flagged
Common Red Flags Found During Pre-Purchase Inspections in Perth
After years of carrying out pre-purchase inspections across Perth, certain issues come up again and again. Some are straightforward maintenance items. Others are deal-breakers.
The red flags I find most often:
- Engine oil leaks, particularly from the valve cover or rear main seal on higher-kilometre vehicles
- Underbody rust, especially on older 4WDs and vehicles from coastal suburbs
- Worn brake pads and rotors, often found on vehicles being sold specifically because the owner doesn’t want to spend on servicing before listing
- CV joint wear, which is very common on front-wheel-drive vehicles with higher kilometres
- Battery and alternator issues, frequently found on vehicles that have been sitting idle between owners
- Evidence of undisclosed repairs, including mismatched paint, panel filler, and alignment issues that don’t line up with what the seller has told you
- Cleared fault codes, where the car shows no warning lights but throws codes immediately on a scan
Finding an issue during an inspection doesn’t automatically mean you shouldn’t buy the car. A lot of findings can be used to negotiate a better price or to ask the seller to address something before settlement. What the inspection gives you is the full picture, so you’re not making a decision in the dark.
Seen something on a used car that doesn’t look quite right? Get in touch and I’ll come out and take a look.
When to Book a Mobile Pre-Purchase Inspection in Perth
The right time to book is after you’ve made an enquiry and before you’ve agreed to anything, ideally before any deposit is paid.
I come to wherever the vehicle is located, whether that’s a private driveway, a dealership, or a car yard. You don’t need to organise transport, and the seller doesn’t need to be present while I carry out the inspection.
If you’re buying privately, I’d always recommend being upfront with the seller that you’re arranging an independent inspection. Most genuine sellers are completely fine with it. If someone pushes back or seems reluctant, that’s worth paying attention to in itself.
If you’ve found a vehicle you’re serious about, don’t commit until you know what you’re buying. Book a mobile pre-purchase inspection in Perth with WA Mobile Mechanics today.
The CTAs appear six times in total, spaced so they feel earned rather than forced. Each one is tied to something specific in the section rather than just appended to the end. Let me know if you’d like any of them reworded or repositioned.
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